The house always wins
The house always wins
A Michelin star brings pressure alongside the adulation. For the three brothers running Casa Sgarra, fostering partnerships with suppliers who share their vision, such as Comenda, has been essential to smooth operations, learns Sam Noble.
Forty kilometers from Bari, on Italy’s Adriatic coast, sits the picturesque city of Trani. For brothers Felice, Riccardo and Roberto Sgarra, who grew up in this land of stone and vineyards where time seems to move slower, this was always going to be the place where their restaurant, Casa Sgarra, would begin its story. “We wanted a place that spoke about us, about our history,” says chef Felice. “Roberto, in the cellar, tells the story of the region through its wines. And I try to let Puglia speak through the dishes.” Cooking has always been at the heart of the family, but their parents passed down something equally valuable: a culture of hospitality and an understanding of the importance of care. “Casa Sgarra was not created to impress, but to welcome,” says Felice. “Riccardo in the dining room, with his grace and elegance, gives voice to our hospitality.”
Each dish blends innovation and tradition
The dining room sets the stage for an experience where every element contributes to the story
Every glass and plate is part of a story we want to tell our guests. That’s why we need partners who are custodians of this narrative
A tale of three brothers
Chef Felice and his twin brother Riccardo were born in Andria in 1982, the year Italy won the soccer World Cup. As a child, Felice followed his father in the fields, absorbing the rhythms and values of the land. Today, his cuisine blends those rural memories with refined technique, a spirit of innovation and a desire to amaze through balance. He plays with the scents of the sea and the land, with textures and colors, but always starts with excellent, seasonal ingredients.
Restaurant manager Riccardo brings elegance and hospitality to Casa Sgarra. His international experience with Hyatt Corporation, along with his work as a brand ambassador in the world of wine, have made him a refined narrator of the dining room and the territory. Sommelier Roberto, the youngest of the three brothers, is a true connoisseur of wine and the custodian of Casa Sgarra’s cellar, which holds more than 600 labels. He serves as the bridge between the kitchen and the dining room, overseeing every detail of the service and expertly guiding guests through each glass. The cuisine at the Michelin-starred restaurant strikes a delicate balance between innovation and tradition.
Each dish tells a visual and emotional story, brought to life by an array of carefully curated tableware – irregular shapes, textured surfaces and porcelain as light as paper. “Every glass, every plate, every piece of cutlery is part of a story we want to tell our guests,” says Felice. “If even one of these elements arrives at the table imperfect, the story is interrupted. That’s why we need partners who are not just suppliers, but custodians of this narrative.”
Every creation reflects the flavours, history and identity of Puglia, bringing together tradition and contemporary vision in each dish
Be a part of the story
Fabio Di Michele, CEO of FERV – a company that installs, maintains and services kitchen equipment – explains how this works in practice. “With the Sgarra brothers, first and foremost, there is listening. Then there is work. Our job is not just
to supply machines, but to build tailor-made efficiency.” Every detail, even washing, must meet the same standards of precision. “We cannot just install machines,” says Di Michele. “We need to guarantee continuity and reliability. That’s why we work with suppliers like Comenda, who share our approach and our attention to what really happens
in the kitchen.”
When it comes to warewashing, that means accommodating a vast array of tableware and service requirements. “Every restaurant has specific needs: particular dishes, delicate glassware, fast turnaround times,” says Livio Brugnoli, general manager of Comenda. “Our racks are designed to adapt to these needs, guarantee protection, and ensure effective washing without compromise. That’s where a good result begins.” At Casa Sgarra, where every dish is a sculpture and every glass blown, having the right rack is essential. Comenda has always designed its racks in-house and owns the molds. This is a deliberate industrial choice: every shape, angle, and material is born from technical knowledge and listening tocustomers’ needs. There are over 80 standard rack models, but if the right one isn’t among that range, a custom solution will be made.
“The rack is an integral part of the result,” says Brugnoli. “It is not an accessory. It is a technical component, just as important as the machine.” Perfect washing isn’t just about the racks; however the entire ecosystem plays a role. Casa Sgarra has chosen reverse osmosis for its machines because it eliminates the need for manual polishing, reduces damage from handling, shortens drying times and protects even the most delicate surfaces. It’s all testament to Comenda’s ability to deliver what Brugnoli calls “intelligent washing, tailor-made.” He believes the market is ready for the next phase of washer development. “The machine must know where it is, what it’s dealing with, and adapt accordingly.” At HostMilano 2025, Comenda will be presenting new machines that can automatically recognize the Comenda rack inserted, adapting the cycle autonomously to protect objects and optimize consumption.
“I confess, we had already designed them some time ago. It was a powerful idea, but perhaps too far ahead of the real technological possibilities of the moment. We never abandoned it, but we chose to wait for the right moment, without forcing it or being presumptuous. Today, with on-board machine intelligence and more mature technology, we can finally put it back into play. Not to impress, but to truly simplify the work of those who rely on us every day,” says Brugnoli. At Comenda, innovation isn’t about spectacle. It is a practical response to real needs, showing respect for the people who use the machines, those who install them and those who rely on their consistent performance every day.
Five years since it opened, Casa Sgarra’s story is still unfolding, through the hospitality it proudly provides, the dishes and drinks it serves, and even in the details its patrons may never notice. Choices made away from the dining room – concerning washing, maintenance, and partners, for example – can make all the difference. “To make a great dish, you need a great team, even behind the scenes,” says Felice.
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For more than 60 years, Comenda has been synonymous with performance excellence, reliability and safety in professional warewashing around the world
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Learn how Comenda develops intelligent warewashing systems and custom solutions designed around the real needs of chefs, operators and hospitality professionals.